Anchor Brewing’s new taproom, which debuted Oct. 21, is more
than just another place to drink beer. It signals, perhaps, a new direction for
the San Francisco brewery that many would argue triggered the current craft
beer revolution under the guidance of owner Fritz Maytag and head brewer Mark
Carpenter.
Sapporo Holdings Ltd. of Japan purchased 121-year-old Anchor
in August from Anchor Brewers & Distillers, which was formed when two Skyy
Spirits executives represented by the Griffin Group investment firm bought the
company in 2010. Sapporo paid $85 million for the beer business. The distilling
side was not part of Sapporo deal.
The beer fit always seemed awkward under Anchor Brewers &
Distillers, and Anchor’s beer innovations seemed to flounder aimlessly
following the 2010 acquisition. The company appeared to chase market trends
rather than focus on the intriguing combinations of the core ingredients of
water, hops, yeast and malt that had been Anchor’s trademark. While local craft
breweries like Cellarmaker, Fieldwork and Almanac were brewing exceptional
beers and passing Anchor by, the new ownership was pursuing a second brewery on
Pier 48 as part of a Mission Rock development project, estimated to have a
price tag of over $1 billion. Those plans now appear to have been scrapped.
If the new taproom and the ambitions of Anchor Brewing
President Matt Davenport (pictured) are any indication, Anchor might be getting
its mojo back by returning to its heritage of making great beer. More than just
a taproom, the De Haro venue is a pilot brewery where the brewers can
experiment with small batches of beer and serve them in a taproom setting to
gauge their popularity. One of the new beers on tap during the media preview
was a delicious German-style Berliner weisse, available with or without
flavoring added, following the German tradition. With no flavoring added, the
beer is pleasantly tart, easy drinking and refreshing without being
overwhelming, and low in alcohol at under 4% abv. Also on tap were a citrusy
IPA made in collaboration with Local Brewing, a red ale made with Thirsty
Bear and a Saison collaboration with Brewery Ommegang. There was also a version
of Anchor’s classic porter with local Four Barrel coffee.
Ironically, just as Anchor seems to be regaining it footing,
the brewery has run afoul of the craft beer hierarchy and is no longer
considered a “craft brewery” by the national Brewers Association or the San
Francisco Brewers Guild. The BA says that a craft brewery must be small,
independent and traditional. Since Sapporo bought all of Anchor Brewing’s
assets, including the Potrero Hill property, to ensure that the company will
continue to be based in San Francisco, the iconic brewery that was making craft
beer before anyone knew what craft beer was is no longer considered a craft
brewery.
Regardless of those distinctions, Anchor is doing the right
thing and if it continues on its current path could soon become relevant to a
new generation of craft beer drinkers even if it doesn’t technically brew
“craft” beer.
